Tuesday 29th Day 4

Just started again and the power went again!

Up at 4.35am, at least some of us were, to make breakfast. Fresh pineapples, bananas and plums and cereals. By 6.05 we were on the bus to El Pacaya, supposedly the most spectacular, active volcano in Guatemala.

Excuse me, but bloody amazing! First view of the volcano puffing smoke out of its perfect cone. As we got closer it became more eerie. The volcano is part of a range , emerging grey from the early morning mists.

We continue closer, passing through villages with goatherds on horseback. Winding up and down hills, being overtaken by flying chicken buses. Saw some birds that looked like buzzards. They weren´t but it reminded me that we have seen almost no wildlife. No spiders, flies, cockroaches, or animals of any description other than dogs and chickens.

Got to the foot of the volcano and picked up 4 hitch-hikers who climbed onto the top of the bus. Drove up a dirt track bordered by coffee plantations. As we drove higher the road got blacker and bumpier. Seemingly mad people live on these slopes, probably the equivalent of our flood planes though definitely more dangerous.

When we park we are met by scores of urchins trying to sell us cut sticks to help us on our journey, but we all decline. Quite a steep start to the trek, but it levels out and we lose the accompanying ponies and riders who were the ambulance in case we needed them. The landscape was amazing. Started through trees and rich vegetation, path - fine black grit. First sight of lava wall through the trees. This was from the last eruption 2 years ago. Vegetation suddenly stops and then a vista from Lord of the Rings. Is this Mordor? Rock folded like double cream. Heat under the feet was incredible. Guide threw branch into fissure and it burst into flames. Then we toasted marshmallows in the heat. What an experience! What a taste! First payback and a memory to last a lifetime.

Came back down on a steep path through the trees and undergrowth. Having to slide on our bottoms. This kept Britney happy, who was craving action. I think she wanted some near death experience, not for herself, of course, but something that would get the helicopter out.

Off on the project phase tomorrow. Lake Atitlan. Aldous Huxley described it as the most beautiful lake in the world. Can´t wait.